Free shipping
for orders over £ 150
UK Team in London
Mega Store in Cologne
Money Back
30 Day Return Policy
You have placed the following items into your shopping cart
Free shipping
for orders over £ 150
UK Team in London
Mega Store in Cologne
Money Back
30 Day Return Policy
With its warm, singing tone, the classical guitar (often called a nylon-string guitar) is a staple in classical music. It’s also a brilliant beginner guitar for lessons and everyday practise thanks to its comfortable feel and forgiving strings.
The classical guitar evolved in 17th-century Spain from instruments such as the lute and vihuela. In the 19th century, luthier Antonio de Torres (1817–1892) shaped the instrument into the form we recognise today. Whilst Torres’ core design remains the blueprint, subtle refinements over time – especially to the internal bracing – have improved how the soundboard vibrates and how well the guitar projects. Today, classical guitars inspire fingerstyle players and remain a favourite not only for solo repertoire, but also for accompanying vocals.
At first glance, classical and steel-string acoustics can look similar, but each type has distinct traits that shape the sound, feel and look.
The biggest difference is the string type: classical guitars use nylon strings, whilst steel-string acoustics are strung exclusively with steel strings. A classical guitar must never be fitted with steel strings, as their higher tension can damage the neck, bridge and overall construction. Nylon strings give a smooth, rounded voice, whereas steel strings are typically brighter, punchier and more percussive.
With a typical nut width of around 52 mm, classical guitars provide more room on the fingerboard – ideal for fingerpicking and traditional techniques. Classical fingerboards are also usually flat, which matters when choosing a capo.
Visually, many classical guitars feature a slotted headstock (often called an “open” headstock). Some makers now bring that classic look to steel-string models too.
Classical guitars come in a wide range of body sizes, so younger players can start comfortably with an ergonomic fit. Common sizes include 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 4/4 and 7/8 models.
All sizes are available with or without a cutaway. A cutaway is a body scoop that improves access to upper frets. Because a small part of the resonant body is removed, a slight reduction in acoustic resonance is possible.
Many brands show real innovation with unusual instruments such as Yamaha’s Silent Guitar models. With a minimal body, pickup and cutaway, they let you practise quietly whilst still delivering a convincing classical-guitar sound through amplification. Fancy a fretless guitar? Godin’s Ultra-Fretless models combine quality electronics with a distinctive, soundhole-free look. Left-handers are well catered for too: left-handed classical guitars are available from most manufacturers.
Spanish flamenco is traditionally accompanied by a classical-guitar variant known as the flamenco guitar. Visually it can be difficult to tell apart from a standard classical guitar. Whilst the outline is similar, flamenco guitars often have slightly shallower sides, giving a lighter, more agile feel for long sessions. They’re typically built lighter, partly because cypress is commonly used for the back and sides. This lively wood delivers a fast response and a punchy, projecting tone – essential for cutting through vocals, castanets and handclaps. Rosewood is also increasingly popular for the body. The top is usually spruce, valued for clarity and treble response. To protect the soundboard, a dedicated tap plate – the “golpeador” – is fitted, and a lower action supports the quick, percussive runs typical of flamenco.
Besides internal bracing, the wood selection, the maker’s craftsmanship and the finish all influence how a classical guitar sounds and feels. For higher-quality instruments, spruce is a popular choice for the top, often with fine, even growth rings. Depending on the desired voice, other woods may be used too. Whilst spruce is prized for sparkle and clarity, cedar typically brings a warmer colour with richer overtones. Mahogany can sound even warmer and more focused, with fewer prominent overtones. In other words: choosing a top wood is largely about personal taste. Entry-level classical guitars often feature a laminated top that’s less sensitive to humidity and offers reliable sustain.
For back and sides, classic choices include mahogany, rosewood, cedar and maple, each adding its own tonal character. Necks are commonly made from mahogany, maple or a similarly dense wood for stability. The preferred wood for the fingerboard is typically rosewood, with ebony used more rarely. More recently, compressed wood composite Richlite has appeared on fingerboards too, and walnut, laurel and Micarta are becoming increasingly common.
Beginners often trip over these terms, because they carry weight and are reflected in price. Solid-wood guitars are generally considered higher-end, whilst laminate is more common on affordable instruments. Still, it helps to follow a few practical guidelines.
For a first instrument, laminated acoustic guitars are a sensible shout: they’re budget-friendly and a solid way to get to know the instrument. They’re also relatively resistant to humidity and temperature swings – ideal as a travel or everyday guitar.
The mid-price range often features guitars with a solid top, which tends to vibrate more freely and can produce a more projecting, stage-ready sound.
Professional players often choose all-solid guitars, where solid back and sides help the instrument resonate more openly and deliver maximum depth and volume.
On stage and in the studio, pickups are a major advantage because you don’t have to position a microphone in front of the soundhole. A good system delivers a more feedback-resistant signal and a natural-sounding tone that lets the character of a classical guitar come through.
Any classical guitar can be upgraded with a pickup by qualified technicians, but it’s often more convenient to buy a model with a factory-fitted system. Many manufacturers offer these at accessible price points, and some versions include an integrated tuner for confident, in-tune performances.
When buying a first guitar, one of the most common questions is which type is best for getting started. Often, it comes down to choosing between a steel-string acoustic and a nylon-string classical.
It’s absolutely possible to start on a steel-string acoustic – its punchy, projecting sound is a favourite with singer-songwriters. But fretting chords can take more finger strength at first, and your fretting hand needs time to toughen up. That’s why classical guitars are such a popular first choice: the softer nylon strings are usually kinder to untrained fingers, whilst steel strings can feel harsher early on. With regular practise, calluses build quickly – and playing steel strings becomes far more comfortable.
You don’t have to spend a fortune on your first classical guitar. There are plenty of great-value starter sets that include handy essentials like a stand, tuner, footstool, capo and more – an easy way to get properly kitted out from day one.
Most beginners do well with a well-set-up 4/4 classical guitar (adults) or the correct smaller size for children. Look for a comfortable action, decent tuning stability and a reliable brand – it makes learning far more enjoyable.
As a rule of thumb: 1/4 and 1/2 suit younger children, 3/4 suits older children and teens, and 4/4 is standard for most adults. The best test is a relaxed reach to the first position without stretching or hunching.
Classical guitars use nylon strings for a warm, mellow sound and a softer feel, whilst steel-string acoustics sound brighter and feel firmer under the fingers. Classical necks are often wider, which many players like for fingerstyle.
No – steel strings create much higher tension and can damage the neck, bridge and top. Classical guitars are designed specifically for nylon (or carbon) strings.
Nylon is the classic choice with a round, traditional tone. Carbon often feels a touch snappier and can sound more defined. High-tension sets can add projection but may feel stiffer; many beginners prefer normal or medium tension.
Lower action usually makes fretting easier, whilst slightly higher action can give more headroom and volume. Many guitars can be adjusted via the saddle/nut and, depending on the design, the neck – best done by a technician to avoid buzzing.
If you plan to play up the neck, a cutaway is genuinely handy. A full body without a cutaway may offer a touch more resonance, but the difference is usually subtle.
If you’re playing live, a pickup makes life easier: you get a direct signal with better feedback control than a mic. Many “electro-classical” models include a preamp and tuner, ready for stage or rehearsal.
A solid top typically offers more dynamics and a more responsive feel as it opens up over time. Laminate is tougher and often cheaper, making it a sensible choice for a first instrument or a “take-anywhere” guitar.
A practical set usually includes a gigbag, tuner, footstool (or support), spare strings and a stand. The key is getting the right size and a proper setup – that’s what keeps practise fun and frustration-free.
